The four layouts you'll actually choose between are the straight grid, diagonal, running bond (offset), and herringbone. They differ in how they look, how hard they are to set, and how much extra tile you need to buy.
Your pattern choice changes your material order, so settle on it before you run the tile calculator. A simple grid wastes the least; herringbone the most.
Straight grid
Tiles set square in even rows and columns, grout lines forming a clean continuous cross-hatch. It's the default for a reason.
- Look: Calm, orderly, modern. Works with everything from large-format porcelain to small mosaics.
- Difficulty: Easiest to set. Straight cuts, predictable layout, forgiving of small errors.
- Waste: Lowest — add 10%.
A grid is the safest first project. Because the grout lines run continuously in both directions, it also makes a small room read as calm rather than busy.
Diagonal
The same square tiles, rotated 45 degrees so they meet the walls at an angle and form a diamond grid.
- Look: Dynamic and a little formal. Pulls the eye across the room diagonally, which can make a narrow space feel wider.
- Difficulty: Moderate. Layout starts from a 45-degree reference line, and every perimeter tile is an angled cut.
- Waste: Add 15% — those angled edge cuts produce a lot of unusable triangles.
Diagonal is a strong choice when you want more visual interest than a grid without committing to an interlocking pattern.
Running bond (offset / brick)
Each row shifts relative to the one above — classically by half a tile, though a one-third offset is popular with long planks. This is the standard for subway tile.
- Look: Relaxed and familiar. The stagger hides minor size variation between tiles and breaks up long grout lines.
- Difficulty: Easy to moderate. The offset is simple, but a half-offset on large or long-format tile can amplify lippage (one tile edge sitting proud of its neighbor), so flatness matters.
- Waste: Add 15% for the staggered partial tiles down each edge.
For walls, a half-offset subway is the workhorse. For floors with long planks, drop to a one-third offset to keep edges flat.
Herringbone
Rectangular tiles set in an interlocking zigzag, each tile perpendicular to its neighbor. The showpiece pattern.
- Look: Rich, tailored, high-end. It reads as craftsmanship even with inexpensive tile.
- Difficulty: Hardest. Every tile must seat at a precise angle, layout lines are unforgiving, and the perimeter is wall-to-wall custom cuts.
- Waste: The highest — add up to 20%.
Herringbone rewards patience. If it's your first tile job, practice the field pattern on a dry layout before you spread any thinset.
How layout affects your order
The pattern doesn't change your room's square footage, but it changes how much tile you buy, because angled and interlocking cuts produce more unusable scrap. Match your overage to the layout:
- Grid: 10%
- Diagonal: 15%
- Running bond: 15%
- Herringbone: up to 20%
Whatever you land on, buy the full waste-adjusted amount in one dye lot so your tiles match closely. The full reasoning is in our tile waste factor guide.
A few setting tips
- Dry-lay a section of any pattern before bonding it — patterns hide their quirks until you see them at scale.
- Keep joints uniform with tile spacers; a creeping misalignment is far more visible in offset and herringbone layouts.
- Back-butter and use a notched trowel sized to your tile so each piece seats flat, which matters most where edges meet at angles.
The bottom line
Pick grid for the easiest, cheapest job; diagonal or running bond for more character at a modest waste premium; herringbone when you want a showpiece and can accept up to 20% overage and a harder install.
Once you've chosen, set your overage and order in one dye lot through the tile calculator. Then size your tile to the room with our tile size guide by room.